I just had to visit this historic recording studio, scene of great sessions and magic moments in Cuban recording history. I thought of all those thousands of hours of recorded gold shelved somewhere deep within the musty record vaults. Surely someone is going to exploit this stuff, using up-to-date Western marketing techniques and the usual North American distribution channels.

"You don't have an appointment, señor?" said the receptionist, sounding a little disappointed. All I wanted was to poke my head into studio A or B, and maybe nod "hello" to Rubén González as he limbered up those famous fingers. Maybe I would pass Ibrahim Ferrer in the hallway on his way to meet Omara Portuondo for a sound check. "I'm sorry. Perhaps you would like to visit our gift store?" she said consolingly.

"Of course," I replied.

In Cuba, It's In The Being, Not In The Having

Now I've been known to spend entire afternoons in record stores. But I was out the door in five minutes after plucking a mambo cd by the pianist Ramon " Bebo" Valdez, father and teacher to one of Cuba's most prominent jazz pianists, Jesus " Chucho" Valdez.

I wanted to practice speaking Spanish with the amiable record store clerk. Remember the days of amiable record store clerks? I may have even prodded him to tell me which records could be exploited into gold sellers in the U.S. by using up-to-date Western marketing techniques and the usual North American distribution channels. Oh well. As I've heard it said here in Cuba: It's all in the being, not in the having.

Cuba is an enchanting place and everybody has a story. Even our cab driver. Happy to see me return so quickly, he mentioned how well his two kids were doing abroad. One was an assistant director in the U.S. film industry and the other was a roadie working for Columbia's superstar, Shakira. Buoyed by all this good news, I was determined to return to EGREM.

Searching For The Fountain Of Cuban Music

A second visit got me a quick meeting with Enrique Fernandez, the technical Director, who explained that EGREM stands for Empresa de Grabaciones y Ediciones y Musicales. And yes, before the revolution, this state-run recording company was formerly the Panart Recording Studios and Company.

"It is not permitted to visit the studio unless you want to come back later between shifts. You see, our studio is recording in three eight- hour sessions that go around the clock," Enrique explained proudly.

We chatted on a comfortable sofa in EGREM's tiny lounge with a full bar in view. It occurred to me that in spite of national shortages of food, clothing and toiletries, record-industry items, such as cardboard liner notes, plastic jewel boxes, cassette cases and recording tape, would be available to "package" all this recording activity.

You Mean There's More than One EGREM?

"No, this EGREM recording studio was not the location of the famous Buena Vista Social Club recordings. Those sessions were recorded in the downtown EGREM building using original 1942 RCA recording equipment," Enrique said in halting English.

"These studios were built with newer British-made equipment."

And, he added, that if I was interested in recording studios there were others in Havana that were truly state-of-the-art and well worth a visit.

The conversation turned to the sad state of salsa music today. I think he was referring to the then over saturation of Ricky Martin on the cover of every news magazine. I offered that, on the contrary, the salsa phenomenon seemed to be taking off in Europe.

"Europe is always a step behind," he laughed.

That Makes America Two Steps Behind

Yes, and so are most Americans. Even before the success of Ry Cooder's B.V.S.C. recordings, there has always been a PANART or an EGREM churning out Cuban recordings before and after Cuba's revolution. Much has been denied us for over four decades. Since the U.S. embargo of Cuba and until recently we have been unable to hear Cuban music on the radio, buy Cuban music or travel to this tiny island.

I trotted back to the gift store - the only place where I would find any recorded nuggets that day. As I flipped through the racks, I noted which titles were not available in the U.S., which was like all of them.

Havana: A Feast For The Ears

It doesn't take a rocket scientist to notice that Havana's infrastructure is in bad shape. Despite over 300 collapsing buildings a year, Cuba's capital has a thriving music business.

Rumba's mix of voices and drumming can be heard daily in a tiny alley called Callejon de Hamel (Hamel's Alley) at noontime. As three to four drummers slap out poly-rhythms, singers are drawn from the crowd to trade vocals. Dancers and spectators alike are crushed together with everyone getting a little crazy by the intoxicating drum patterns. Quietly to the side, a venture capitalist puts out a wooden plank with several bottles of rum and shot glasses. Somewhere the pungent smell of a Cuban cigar punctuates the air.
If the timing is right, you might be able to see the singer Carmen Flores at the Casa de Africa, a cultural arts museum devoted to santería, Cuba's most popular religion. Dressed in a white flowing gown representing the androgynous creator god Obatalá, she gave a compelling performance showing off her powerful yet beautiful voice. After the show Flores mingled with the audience and I bought one of her cassettes.

You may purchase Carmen Flores' album here

You Can Buy Music In Cuba

Much of the local music scene is recorded on cheap cassettes available for about five bucks. Throughout my trip I purchased these in support of local musicians. We listened to a group of musicians called Los Fakires, an wonderful Cuban group whose ages qualify them for membership in the Buena Vista Social Club. During intermission, we took a break from dancing to great versions of "Suavecito" and "Mata Siguaraya" to buy their cassettes.
You may purchase Los Fakires' album here

Watch for the strolling troubadours looking to earn an American dollar or two. This is a great way to meet Cubans and support the arts at the same time. At night the streets and corner bars in Habana Vieja, the old town, come alive with the sweet sounds of a Cuban chorus and the comforting clicks of the clave. With a "license," one can legally buy music with American dollars. Music is considered educational and therefore exempt from the 1992 Torricelli Act. God forbid Americans should buy or sell essential items such as food, medicine and medical equipment to the Cubans.

I'm Going Back

There was a time when outside volunteers were needed to cut sugar cane for Cuba. Now the Cubans want English teachers so they can expand their tourist business. Maybe I could come back and teach English or... volunteer to work part-time for EGREM.

I figure by the time the "mango curtain" falls, I'll know the difference between my timbas and tumbaos and guarachas and guajiras.

Plus, I'll have surely learned a few up-to-date Western marketing techniques and the usual North American distribution channels just in case I find a "gold" record.

Home
Copyright © 2001-2003 All Rights Reserved